The WORSTHOTELINCENTRALAMERICA – Excerpt from “Dosojin & Tonic”

Revisions continue. Traveling across Central America now.

            Another morning of huevos, frijoles negros, platanos fritos con crema y tortillas then off on the next chicken bus to Guatemala City to transfer to a main bus line (luxury travel with only three to a seat) – onward to El Salvador.

            Enter Cindy Pilgrim, vagabonda de Idaho. Sharing a seat with Cary, one ahead of mine, passing road stories around like a bottle. By the time we get to San Salvador, we’ve decided to join forces for the night. The bus will continue on in the morning, with Cindy Pilgrim, bound for Nicaragua, but for now we will wander off to find the WORSTHOTELINCENTRALAMERICA.

            Granted, there’s a lot of competition for this distinction. There are bad hotels. Seedy hotels. Run-down, ugly, blight-stricken hotels. There are grimy, gritty, grungy, gruesome hotels. There are disgusting, desolate, decadent, dingy, dilapidated, despicable, delirious, detrimental-to-your-health hotels. There are heinous, horrendous, horrible, hideous, hellish, honest-to-Dog-you-wouldn’t-send-your-worst-enemy-to hotels. There’s the Devil’s Dormitory, Satan’s Sleep, Lucifer’s Lounge, Antichrist’s Attic and Beelzebub’s Bed and Breakfast, but there is only one WORSTHOTELINCENTALAMERICA, and we found it.

            It must have been a former warehouse, maybe for exhaust manifolds or broken doll heads, but it may also have served time as a slaughterhouse, a drug house, a whorehouse and a flophouse. In fact, it may still be all of those. The door opens into a cavern where a few naked light bulbs are losing their battle with the darkness. The reception desk is behind a barred window like an eastside liquor store. We slide a few colónes under the bars and a figure lost in shadow slides back a small key attached to a large block of wood. A finger points to a dank stairwell.

            “Cuatros. Arriba.”

            The second floor, where the “rooms” are, is an open space with a line a small windows on one wall. Through their grime-encrusted glass, I watch a cluster of chickens on connecting rooftops pecking through rotting garbage tossed from other windows, giving “urban farming” a whole new meaning. Opposite the chicken-viewing windows are the “rooms.” “Rooms” must forever be in quotation marks, and even then, it’s a stretch to use the word. Panels of particle board had been attached to vertical 2x4s and, since the panels are 8 feet and the ceiling 10, there is a one foot gap above and below the “walls” of the “rooms.” Inside, through a “door” of particle board, is the “bed,” a wooden cot with a Communion wafer-thin mattress, a wafer that had been chewed on and spat out by an ornery old Mother Superior who had finally had enough of the Church and realized she had wasted her entire life for a bad joke. Not even a good lie – just a tedious, bad joke with a cold, lonely death for a punchline.

            At the corner opposite the stairwell is a single stall “bathroom” that hadn’t enjoyed running water for years, which didn’t stop legions of guests from using it anyway. Just to walk past its one-hinged door was to court a host of vicious and pernicious diseases that would leave one nastily maimed or, if lucky, dead.

            Drinks are definitely needed if we are to survive the night.

            Whiskey. Copious, heroic, monumental amounts.

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A Letter to Peter Matthiessen

100_1092 6 April 2014

Dear Peter,

This is the letter I meant to write. For the last couple of years I meant to write this letter to you. This is it, a bit belated, but I have a habit of not writing the letter or the poem or making the phone call until it’s too late for any of them to be of much use to anyone. So this is the letter, finally, that I had meant to write to you.

I keep thinking about the first time we met. You had just returned to Montana and were on your way out to Jim Harrison’s place to go fish the Yellowstone. On your way out, you cut up to the Grizfork, where I was then living with my cousin Doug Peacock. You came up this way even though you knew Doug wasn’t around, but you said you just wanted to take a look at the mountains. I came out of my cabin and we shook hands and introduced ourselves in the middle of the dirt road laced with ground squirrel tracks and hoof prints. We both agreed on the same drainage of the Absarokas as our favorite: not the south fork of Deep Creek that Chatham so perfectly captured (his painting on the cover of Jim’s Legends of the Fall marking it as the great book that it is) but the drainage immediately south where Pine Creek rises, twisting up toward Black Mountain. There’s something of power up there, some mystery that I think we both love.

We stood silently, side by side, traveling in the imagination, which is to say in spirit, up the dark passage. We stood silently, side by side, as if we were old friends, which felt like a great gift to me. You, the person who had the courage and wisdom and passion and generosity to create a life that made it possible to bring such words into the world: The Snow Leopard and At Play in the Fields of the Lord and In the Spirit of Crazy Horse and Far Tortuga and on and on. How was it possible for one mind to conceive those books, for one heart to feel them, for one pen to contain them? What a gift to stand in silence, next to that mind and heart and pen, to stand in silence contemplating mountains as if we were old friends. I’ll never forget that first meeting and I want to thank you for that.

I just took a break from writing this to call Doug, who now becomes, perhaps, the elder of our loose and far-flung tribe, a distinction he may or may not admit to, but between him and Jim Harrison and Terry Tempest Williams, who do we now have left? Anyway, I told Doug that I would go look at the Yellowstone River today and think of you and he told me a memory about a fish you caught in a side channel off Ninth Street Island during your last visit out here.

Your last visit. … I can see your smile, which is mostly in your eyes.

The last time you and I talked, it was over breakfast at the Grizfork. You were heading out for a day of fishing and I was off to another day of building Doug and Andrea’s new house. For awhile, it was just the two of us around that old dining room table, with a photo of Abbey and a painting of a grizzly bear looking down at us from the walls. We got to talking about writing. About method and process. I was struggling with a novel and wondering how to ever finish it (I still haven’t). And then you gave me another great gift. You said, “Something that works for me …” and then you told me how you do it – how you find It, day after day, and follow It all the way to the end of the book. It was the best writing advice I’d ever heard.

But here’s the thing: By the time you were driving away down toward the river, I had completely forgotten what you said. Every word, gone.

So this letter that I’ve been meaning to write, this letter that I’ve been meaning to write for the last couple of years, this belated letter, is to ask you, What was it? What were those few words over coffee and pancakes that I so needed to hear?

I know I’m being greedy. You’ve given us a lifetime of books filled with the words we need to hear. I guess all I can do now is keep reading – my answer is in there somewhere. You were generous and you gave us everything.

So now, what can I say but, “Good journey.” Travel well, my mentor, my elder, and (though I probably haven’t quite earned the honor, I’ll say it anyway) my friend. I will think of you every time I’m blessed with a moment of standing in silence, looking up to Black Mountain and our favorite view along this stretch of the northern Rockies.

And, I’ll close with the word you used in signing my copy of The Snow Leopard, which is both greeting and farewell, and is meant in it’s literal sense of “I bow to the divine in you.”

Namaste,

Marc

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Revisions Continue on Dosōjin & Tonic

Two chapters into the third draft. I thought I’d start posting some excerpts. It starts with a Prelude lifted from The Lost Writings of Miscellaneous Jones:

Not much is known about Miscellaneous Jones
He walked a lot of roads
but always wiped the dust from his boots
He was partial to rhubarb pie & drank his coffee black
He did most of his talking with his eyes
but if you heard his voice, even once
you’d never quite be able
to shake it.

After the first chapter, comes the First Interlude:

Miscellaneous Jones sent me a postcard once,
general delivery, Grayling, Michigan
I had to hitch into town to get it

It said, “Every tyrant
is a killer of poets.
That should tell us something
about the potential power
of what we do.”

And then it said,
“Wish you were here.”

There was no return address.

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