Hundred Highways Tour #9, 10: U.S. 87 & MT 208 to Cassiopeia Books

Dizzy after the stunningly beautiful drive through the Little Belt Mountains

Dizzy after the stunningly beautiful drive through the Little Belt Mountains (photo by Lisa Beaudin)

This is the kind of drive roads were invented for: Highway 89 running through Clyde Park, Wilsall, Ringling (of circus fame) and White Sulphur Springs before plunging into the Little Belt Mountains and the Lewis & Clark National Forest. An unrolling canvas of fall colors and streams reflecting a riot of sunlight is accented by golems of limestone rising from road’s edge into the sapphire blue sky. I have to constantly remind myself to keep my eyes on the road. I keep forgetting.

We stop off in Niehart (pop. 51) for a cold road drink at Bob’s Bar (the marquee read “NEXT BEER STOP 57 MILES” – how could one not stop?). Friendly folks and classic small-town-bar atmosphere. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for a game of pool, I had a reading to get to.

So onward to U.S. 87 and State Hwy 208 taking us from Belt to Great Falls. We checked into a fantastic room at the Hotel Arvon (a suite for the price of a broom-closet), and headed over to the bookstore.

Cassiopeia Books is a gem of a place in a city suffering from the bad karma of the proximity to Malmstrom Air Force Base. Rich book selection, funky location, friendly owner and the crowd was fantastic – one of the best Q&A sessions I’ve had.

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Photo by Lisa Beaudin

Of course, we had to end the night at Great Falls’ other gem: The Sip n Dip Tiki Lounge. Wine and mermaids. What more could one ask for? Except Piano Pat, who was unfortunately off that night. But for our next visit, we’ll make sure she’s playing (and make time for a game of 8-ball at Bob’s).

See you around the next bend.

[Read more reports from the Hundred Highways Tour here.]

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Hundred Highways Tour #8: MT Highway 3 to the High Plains BookFest

Billings viewed from Highway 3

Billings viewed from Highway 3

The High Plains BookFest and the High Plains Book Awards presented by the Writer’s Voice and the Billings Public Library are a great reminder of the importance of community in the literary arts. Writers spend so much of their time alone, plucking away at typewriter keys or scratching the pages of a journal, accompanied by a cold cup of coffee and a snoring cat. Not many people understand what it is we’re doing, or why. Often, neither do we. Writing is wandering a dark cave with a dim flashlight. Something fantastic is painted on the walls but we can only make out a bit at a time. We must, from time to time, head back to the surface and compare notes with other explorers with their own dim flashlights. Not only to expand the understanding of the picture, but to recharge our batteries so we can head back down with a brighter light. So an opportunity to gather writers and readers together, to celebrate the books that move us, change us and challenge us, to hear our words spoken aloud and echoing off other souls, is vital to the continuance of our craft.

I checked into my room at the Dude Rancher, with its cattle brands carpet and matching headboard, then bolted over to the Visible Vault to read a couple poems and be a judge for a really terrific poetry slam. I used to do a lot of slam poetry back in the Midwest and it’s been awhile since I attended an event with this much talent. It reminded me of the energy back at the Kraftbrau in Kalamazoo. There the wild poems flowed as freely as the beer, and I met some of the finest writers I know.

The next night, after visiting a couple classes on campus, I met up with other poets at the weekly jazz jam at the Yellowstone Valley Brewing Co. Garage and dogdamn! I had no idea such a great jazz scene existed in Montana. Really hot players, good cold beer. I was invited up to perform a piece with the band. I did a new poem, “Arundo Donax” from a work-in-progess suite that contrasts the positive beauty and power of John Coltrane with the ugly death-wish of the Coal Train.

My actual reading for the festival was a perfect example of the community of writers and its value. I was honored to share the lectern with Tami Haaland (Montana’s poet laureate), Cara Chamberlin author of the really fine book The Divine Botany), Dave Caserio (one of the best performance poets I’ve seen) and Nathan Petterson (who won the slam two nights previously). Hearing their words definitely revealed more of that cave painting and served to recharge the batteries.

So now, with those recharged batteries, I’m ready to head back down into the cave. There’s another poem down there, waiting to be brought to light.

[Read more reports from the Hundred Highways Tour here.]

 

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Hundred Highways Tour #7: MT Highway 86 to Country Bookshelf

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Photo by Lisa Beaudin

Lisa and I had to get a little creative for our route to Country Bookshelf in Bozeman to avoid, yet again, traveling I-90 (there’s only so many ways to get over the pass). So we headed up to Clyde Park (originally called “Sunnyside”) and took the breathtakingly scenic Brackett Creek Road to Highway 86 which hugs the south-eastern front of the Bridger Mountains.

It was worth the extra time.

As always, “making good time” should refer to quality not quantity. And any route that results in a poem, is very high-quality indeed.

Brackett Creek

Gold coins of aspen
shimmering on the hillsides as
a golden eagle lifts
from a fence post

We slow to watch
as it follows the slope of the land
like chords waving across the lines
of a musical staff

Sunlight painting spruces,
barns & the ribboning road
unrolling before us
like our best possible future

Surrounded by the only gold
that isn’t fool’s gold,
& with you here to share it,
I’m the richest man in the world

The reading was enhanced by that drive, and also by a great dinner beforehand with one of my favorite couples, Gatz and Janie. Gatz (aka William Hjortsberg) gave me the first blurb for Vagabond Song (which, coming from the author of so many great books and screenplays, was a huge honor).

Here’s the trailer for the Caldera Theatre Co. production of “Trout Fishing in Livingston” which features Gatz reading from his Jubilee Hitchhiker: The Life and Times of Richard Brautigan:

Thanks for riding shotgun on the Hundred Highways tour. We’ll be heading to Billings next.

[Read more reports from the Hundred Highways Tour here.]

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